Yesterday, at 12:10 AM, I got in a car with a friend from IBD and we started making our way down to Delhi. It was definitely an interesting ride, as we got stopped at 7 police checkpoints, where our passports and visas were checked. I'm hearing that it has something to do with local elections, but I don't really know.
From Delhi, I boarded a plane to Gaya. Being that we're in India, we got on the plane and then waited an hour and a half before take off. I had the good fortune to be seated next to an extraordinarily racist, judgmental asshole who would not shut up. I eventually told him that I needed to sleep (true), because every other attempt to get him to stop talking to me about how ever other race had horrible habits seemed to fail. Charming.
Once in Gaya, I was picked up and brought to my hotel in Bodh Gaya. It's a brand new hotel and I was very happily surprised to find that this place, under budget, was outfitted with the most comfortable beds I've ever slept on in India (outside of The Grand in Delhi) and a bathtub. An honest to god bathtub. I took a LOOONG shower and then my friend Tashi picked me up and we went out for Bhutanese food. America needs Bhutanese food.
This morning I made up for the all night car ride by sleeping until noon. I then went to Tergar monastery, where most of the Kagyu Monlam festivities will be held. After lunch I made my way over to the main stupa to make offerings on behalf of some friends. While walking along, a gaggle of teenage girls were commenting in Tibetan on my dress, so I thanked them in Tibetan, which broke the ice. It turned out they were from Suja School, here to attend HH Karmapa's teachings. They were also all from different regions of Kham. After a bit of social chatting, I asked if I could interview them. At 17-18 years old, they've been my youngest interviewees. It was really interesting to see their point of view. My favorite question and answer:
Me: To the best of your knowledge, where was King Gesar born?
All: Dege! He was born in Dege!
Me: Why do you say that?
All: Because Kunga sings that song, "Phayul Dege" and in the song it says "Dege is my fatherland and it is the birthplace of Joru, King Gesar!"
Yep. That was the main reason. Well done, Kunga. You should be proud.
After I went back to Tergar, I also interviewed a lama in his late thirties. This interview was amazing and went on quite a while. He was from Yushu and in his hometown, he says there were many people who would go to the mountains and fall asleep and wake up able to recite the Epic. These people are illiterate and didn't even know what they were reciting until they asked a more literate person, who would pull out the Gesar books. Others, he said, would meditate in a manner similar to the oracles, then fall into a trance and start reciting and acting out the epic. They would be completely oblivious to the world around them, not even hearing questions adressed to them. They would swing their arms, like fighting with swords, and be completely lost in the epic.
People are taking turns borrowing my books and singing the drung. It's so much fun to hear people's stories. But by far my favorite part of all this is how excited the interviewees get. No one seems to really care about Gesar in exile, so for many of them, it's their only chance to tell these stories and talk about it. Their excitement is contagious and I've been smiling like a madwoman all day.
From Delhi, I boarded a plane to Gaya. Being that we're in India, we got on the plane and then waited an hour and a half before take off. I had the good fortune to be seated next to an extraordinarily racist, judgmental asshole who would not shut up. I eventually told him that I needed to sleep (true), because every other attempt to get him to stop talking to me about how ever other race had horrible habits seemed to fail. Charming.
Once in Gaya, I was picked up and brought to my hotel in Bodh Gaya. It's a brand new hotel and I was very happily surprised to find that this place, under budget, was outfitted with the most comfortable beds I've ever slept on in India (outside of The Grand in Delhi) and a bathtub. An honest to god bathtub. I took a LOOONG shower and then my friend Tashi picked me up and we went out for Bhutanese food. America needs Bhutanese food.
This morning I made up for the all night car ride by sleeping until noon. I then went to Tergar monastery, where most of the Kagyu Monlam festivities will be held. After lunch I made my way over to the main stupa to make offerings on behalf of some friends. While walking along, a gaggle of teenage girls were commenting in Tibetan on my dress, so I thanked them in Tibetan, which broke the ice. It turned out they were from Suja School, here to attend HH Karmapa's teachings. They were also all from different regions of Kham. After a bit of social chatting, I asked if I could interview them. At 17-18 years old, they've been my youngest interviewees. It was really interesting to see their point of view. My favorite question and answer:
Me: To the best of your knowledge, where was King Gesar born?
All: Dege! He was born in Dege!
Me: Why do you say that?
All: Because Kunga sings that song, "Phayul Dege" and in the song it says "Dege is my fatherland and it is the birthplace of Joru, King Gesar!"
Yep. That was the main reason. Well done, Kunga. You should be proud.
After I went back to Tergar, I also interviewed a lama in his late thirties. This interview was amazing and went on quite a while. He was from Yushu and in his hometown, he says there were many people who would go to the mountains and fall asleep and wake up able to recite the Epic. These people are illiterate and didn't even know what they were reciting until they asked a more literate person, who would pull out the Gesar books. Others, he said, would meditate in a manner similar to the oracles, then fall into a trance and start reciting and acting out the epic. They would be completely oblivious to the world around them, not even hearing questions adressed to them. They would swing their arms, like fighting with swords, and be completely lost in the epic.
People are taking turns borrowing my books and singing the drung. It's so much fun to hear people's stories. But by far my favorite part of all this is how excited the interviewees get. No one seems to really care about Gesar in exile, so for many of them, it's their only chance to tell these stories and talk about it. Their excitement is contagious and I've been smiling like a madwoman all day.
No comments:
Post a Comment