Essay 02: Shamanizing in the House
This wasn’t the sort of place where one would expect
shamanizing. To be honest, the first
thing that struck me about the room wasn’t the large shamanic altar, the
massive drums, or even the giant stuffed vulture. It was the teddy bears.
Previously, I had only seen shamanizing and shaman’s altars
in gers, the traditional circular felt tents known as yurts in English and ger
in Mongolian. Even in Ulaanbaatar, many
shamans in the appropriately-named ger districts kept a ger in their front yard
and used it for socializing and shamanizing.
However, Tulga had taken down his ger for winter and not set
it back up, due to an unusual amount of rain, so the altar had been moved to
the back room of his house. This room functioned as a guest room (my bedroom,
in fact), and clothing storage. The
walls are covered in baby blue wall paper with teddy bears alternately having
picnics or playing soccer. One wall is dominated by large, 3D Barbie stickers.
When shamanizing would begin, the bed would be cleared of
sheets and blankets, and turned into a sitting area for supplicants of the
shaman. The room would be impeccably
cleaned. In the corner, next to the altar, is a large mirror and chest that has
been turned into a makeup vanity. The
mirror would be covered by a large blanket, also featuring a giant teddy bear.
The shrine is still on the north side of the home, facing
south, but there is no door because we are in a bedroom. Even the south facing
window is covered by a curtain. The
childrens’ toy car is pushed into a corner, and a tablecloth covered the
miniature children’s piano, which will be used as a spare table.
From the main room, we can still hear the television.
Someone will go to turn it off. The children will protest. It’s one of the hazards of shamanizing in the
house. With the ger outside, the
children might sit inside and watch television under the watchful eye of an
older cousin.
Even out near lake Khuvsgul, one of the centers of shamanism
for Mongolia, a shift to settled housing has led to shamanizing in the house,
rather than in nature or the ger.
Some question whether shamanism can occur within the
confines of a cement walled house. Do
the spirits feel uncomfortable coming and talking under the shadow of pop up
Barbie stickers?
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